|Anders Rafael Jensen||1990-07-11||Y||Se mere..|
Leder: Ola Hilleberg
Deltagere, svensk ekspedition med bl.a. Göran Kropp og dansk-fødte Rafael Jensen
Den bare fjerde bestigning af Mustagh Tower.
Rafael skriver: "I selvstændig ekspeditionsstil besteg jeg 1990 det komplekse Muztagh Tower, et svært bjerg 1956, i selskab med Göran Kropp (senere dokumenteret usand). Vi var en gruppe på 6 svenske klatrere med varierende erfaring, dog uden særlig erfaring af højde. Vor forbindelsesofficer Khalil gjorde sit!"
Paul Nunn skriver i Amercan Alpine Journal:
The Muztagh Tower was repeated by a Swedish expedition. Base was established on 10 July at 4700m, and the party found the route through the Chagran icefall long and tedious, a total of 22km from base to Camp 3 on the mountain. Five camps were set up, and 1200m of fixed rope were used.
The Swedes put Camps I and 2 north of the Chagran glacier, unlike their predecessors, and made a shortcut up the great couloir at the base of the Muztagh Tower. This they thought less demanding and less avalanche-prone than the original British route on the opposite side of the Chagran.
Magnus Nilsson reported: 'In spite of collapsing seracs on the ridge, some mildly frostbitten fingers and a fixed rope that broke during rappel, the team suffered no severe incidents. They reported the extremely loose rock on Muztagh as the major hazard. A lot of snow on the ridge enabled them to avoid most of the rock climbing, but this on the other hand built up the dangerous seracs mentioned ... Camps were established at 6800m on II August, 7100m on 15 August and the summit was reached on 17 August. The party was led by ala Hillberg.'